Showing posts with label Kanwariyas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kanwariyas. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Baba Ajgaivinath, Sultangunj, Bihar

Shivalinga of Baba Ajgaivinath and images of Parvati
and Ganesha on the wall at Sultangunj, Bihar

           Sultangunj is famous as a place from where millions of devotees take the holy water of Ganga in the Hindu month of 'Sawan' and go on foot or by other means to Baba Baidyanathdham, Deoghar, Jharkhand (distance about 100 km) to offer it to "Jyotirlinga" of Shiva. It is situated on the southern bank of the Ganga in Bihar. For Hindus Ganga is a holy river that flowed in the heavens and King Bhagirath brought it on the earth after hard penance to give "Moksha" to his forefathers who were cursed to death. When Ganga came to earth with tremendous force God Shiva took it in his "Jata" (tress) to slow its force. She is liked by Shiva, so the water of this holy river called "Gangajal" is also considered holy and used in worships. The flow of river Ganga at Sultangunj is Northwards so its importance increases ("Uttarvahini Ganga"). Though Sultangunj is situated in the plains of Ganga and hills are not in sight all around the horizon, at the "Ghats" of Ganga one can see the two small hillocks a few hundred meters apart. On one of them, a mosque is constructed while on the other is the temple of "Ajgaivinath". It is said that the mosque was made in place of a "Parvati" temple by "Kalapahad" (A converted Muslim who had destroyed many temples and made thousands of Hindus accept Islam) but he could not destroy the Shiva temple on the other hill. According to Hindu mythology, the hill of "Ajgaivinath" was once the ashram" of "Jahnu Rishi" and many students came to his Ashram to get his teachings and education. In the modern history this place is related to a Shiva devotee named Harinath who used to go to Baba Baidyanathdham, Deoghar regularly. One day Shiva told him in his dreams that Harinath would not come to Deoghar but Shiva himself would come as "Shivalinga" at "Ajgaivinath". Harinath found the dream to be true. So he built a temple at the hill and became the first "Mahanth" here. 
The Pundit ji was wearing Dhoti over the Jeans Pant.
In the background the Mosque on the hill at
Sultangunj, Bihar

              I had visited here many times before with my family for a few dips in the holy river Ganga (called "Ganga-snan") and fetch "Gangajal" for worships at home and to offer it to Shiva at Baba Baidyanathdham, Deoghar and Baba Basukinathdham, Dumka. The last visit here was from Dumka. I had some work at Dumka, Jharkhand. When my wife knew it, she told me that remaining "Gangajal" at home was very less in quantity and some old aged relatives had passed away in the last year so we need "Ganga-snan" and "Gangajal". Since I could spare only one more day outside home so we agreed that in that day we shall take dips in Ganga and fetch "Gangajal" and return back to home. We had not an extra day to visit to the temples of Baba Baidyanathdham, Deoghar and Baba Basukinathdham, Dumka which otherwise was a must for us. Since nearest "Ganga-ghat" from Dumka is at Bhagalpur, Bihar, we planned to hire a taxi from Dumka to bathing "Ghat" near Barari, Bhagalpur in that morning so that we could return to Jasidih railway station in the evening to board our train.  

Baba Ajgaivinath Temple at Sultangunj Bihar

              As per plan I with my mother and wife reached Dumka on the fixed date in the morning and stayed at a hotel. I had my work done in the first half of the day so we all took our lunch and rested. In the evening I contacted the staff at counter of the hotel for hiring a taxi for the next day, he tried but did not succeed. Dumka is a small town and these hotel staffs are not so professional. So I went to taxi stand near bus stand and talked to one of the taxi drivers. He told me the rates that was higher than the normal because the road to Bhagalpur was in its worst condition. But he himself was unable to go next day due to some urgent work, so he talked to another taxi driver on phone who was ready to go. I too talked to him and fixed the time at 6:00 AM in the morning. 
A view of Ajgaivinath Temple from
Parvati Mandir at Sultangunj, Bihar

                Next morning we got ready by 6:00 AM and waited for the taxi but it had not come till 6:30 AM, so I ringed the driver, he told, "taking breakfast, just coming." Next time he told,"I am on the way." Again I dialed, he answered,"I am just near your hotel". Next he switched off the phone and nowhere he or his taxi was in sight. I got anxious because we were getting late. It was already 7:30 AM. The hotel staff told me that he could arrange a taxi but it will take about an hour because he would have to go to residence of the taxi owner. I had no other way in my mind. Just when I was to say OK to him my phone ranged. It was an unknown number. When I picked up the call, it was another driver named Gopal. He asked me that if "Ganga-snan" is the purpose, would I go to Sultangunj instead because due to the road condition no driver would agree to go to Bhagalpur. He was true. Even we would have exhausted in travelling on that road. I asked him, "If I agree, how much time would you take to come to hotel". He told me,"five minutes". I asked him to come as soon as possible. Thus our destination changed to Sultangunj due to turn of the events. He came within 15 minutes. My wife wanted to take a cup of tea before starting the journey. We all took tea in "Kulhads" at the famous tea-shop of Dumka - at Gopi's tea shop. Then saying "Bol-bum" we started our journey to Sultangunj.   

                We took the route via Deoghar. Distance from Dumka to Sultangunj via Deoghar is about 175 km, while our previous planned route Dumka - Bhagalpur was about 120 km. So we had to cover extra 55 km to Sultangunj. But this route was good except a few places. On the other hand Dumka - Bhagalpur road was almost non-motorable. Our current journey was to take more than 4 hours. So we were to reach Sultangunj not before 12 noon. Our aim was to do "puja" (worship) at "Ajgaivinath" after "Ganga-snan". So till "puja" we could take only tea or milk. After two hours of driving we reached "Katoria". Here we stopped for fifteen minutes and took tea. From Katoria one road on the right turn goes to Banka while the road on the left turn goes to Sultangunj. The point at which one or more roads join are called "Mode -मोड़" in local language. So this was "Katoria mode". We took left turn from here. Journey ahead was interesting because the route was through a valley and scenery was awesome. Along came a place named "Suiya Pahad". Its meaning is "hill of needles. This name is due to the small fragments of stones here have sharp edges. This place is on the pedestrian route for "Kanwariyas" (who fetch two pots of 'Gangajal' at Sultangunj and hang them on both ends of a bamboo part and keep it on the shoulders) from Sultangunj to Baba Baidyanathdham, Deoghar. Since they walk bare footed, this place gets very difficult to walk for them. Sharp edges of small stones under the feet hurts badly and sometimes they bleed.

A view of Holy river Ganga at Sultangunj
and Chowkis at Ganga-ghat

            After the hilly area, begins the plain of Ganga. You will see  continuous paddy fields up to you can see. The vast even stretches are dotted with some villages. Around 12:30 PM we reached the railway over-bridge at Sultangunj. The driver asked local people for the directions at two or three places because we had to take turns at some places in the busy market roads. The driver took the taxi at the 'Ghat' parking that was very near to the "Ajgaivinath" hill. Ganga was flowing about 15 ft down from here. Many wooden "Chowki" were placed on the ghat slope. These are placed by sellers of worship items or flowers. These sellers provide you dry "Chowki" on which clothes can be put during "Ganga-snan". But you have purchase things from this seller only. Since we arrived late here, very few sellers were there. A lady flower seller with a 6 yrs child asked us to keep clothes at her "Chowki". Many people were still taking bath. We cautiously entered the water because the land under the water was not even and many hard things like fragments of earthen pots and plastic things (thrown by devotees) laid there. The water quality was good compared to other cities in Bihar and UP. All of three took many dips in the holy water of Ganga and filled all the pots we took with us for this purpose. My wife also took some fine clay of Ganga beneath the water which is called "Mrittika" (मृत्तिका). This holy earth is used for many purposes related to worship. After "Ganga-snan" ladies perform Ganga-worship. For this my mother and wife purchased flowers, "Deep" (earthen lamp with ghee and cotton 'bati'), camphor, etc. from the lady seller. 
Holy Banyan tree near Parvati Temple at
Ajgaivinath, Sultangunj, Bihar

                Just then came a Pundit ji who looked like a college student. In fact he was wearing a dhoti over jeans pant. He told me "the place where your vehicle is parked belongs to my area, so either you pay me Rs. 40/- or get your worship performed by me for which you will have to pay Rs 151/- as 'Dakshina' (donation)." When I talked in local language about his village and 'gotra' and also told him that I am no outsider and belong to the neighboring district, his tone of talking became mild. I told him that you take us to "Ajgaivinath" temple and perform worship but the 'Dakshina' (donation) would be as per my wish. First he tried to argue but then agreed. He first helped in performing Ganga-worship to my mother and wife then took us to the temple on the hill for worship of "Baba Ajgaibinath". He took us to the temple through a way on the right of the entrance and a short-cut. At half way we saw a cow being kept there. Just at the gate of the main temple we saw an old "Sadhu" sitting with "Bibhooti" in a "Thali" (Big plate). He was putting a "Tilak" of "Bibhooti" at the middle of forehead of the devotees coming there and in return devotees were putting coins or small notes. Inside we saw three "lingas" and and "Parvati's" image on the adjacent wall. These were the natural "lingas" of "Ajgaivinath". The Pundit ji told that at this place Shiva had taken a bow named "Ajgav", so this place was named "Ajgaivinath". From here he took us to show other idols and images of gods. We saw some some idols that were very old. Perhaps they were obtained in excavations. In fact this area have been center of arts and learning during the times of Mauryas, Guptas and Palas. At a place small idols of Buddha along with seven ft high copper Buddha statue had been recovered. Some of it were taken to museum at Birmingham by the English. A separate "Parvati" temple have been constructed at the lower level. We also went there to worship. My mother recalled the time when she occasionally used to come here for worship with her parents in her childhood, every time she saw this hillock having deep water all around. People went to temple by boats. True, the water in Ganga has decreased in volume drastically in last few decades.

                  After completion of worship we came back to our taxi and gave Pundit ji his "Dakshina". I took him with us to the road so that no other person will ask again for parking. After dropping him there we took our back journey. It was about 2 O'clock and we were quite hungry. About 10 km from Sultangunj we saw a "Dhaba" where some people with family were eating. Here we stopped and took our lunch. From here we went non-stop and reached railway station of Jasidih at about 6 PM. The driver Gopal brought our luggage to waiting room. I paid his bill in full and thanked him. He had to return back to Dumka and was hoping for some passenger to Dumka for some extra income. He too was happy and in a gesture of respect touched our feet at the parting time. 

                Thus we completed our mission for "Ganga-snan" in a wonderful way. 

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Monday, April 27, 2015

Baba Basukinath Dham, Dumka district, Jharkhand, India

Baba Basukinathdham Temples at Basukinath (Jarmundi Block),Dumka, Jharkhand, India.


        By the grace of God Shiva, I have visited a number of Shiva temples including many Jyotirligas but there is something unique in Baba Basukinath Dham that attracts me the most. For the last twenty-five years, I have been visiting this temple which is located in a village-like surrounding at a distance of one km from the Deoghar-Dumka highway in Jarmundi block. Most of the visits were a part of Baidyanathdham, Deoghar, and Basukinathdham puja on the same day. Since not eating till worship is complete, is a practice in our society we would get up from bed early in the morning at Deoghar and take our baths and put on fresh or new clothes and rush to Baba Baidyanath temple, then complete our worship in an hour or two and then head towards Basukinath by our car or taxi. We would worship Baba with "Gangajal" and then try to offer "Jal" to each and every god established all around the courtyard. Final worship of Hanuman ji under a banyan tree midway to "Shivaganga". After paying "Dakshina" to 'Pundas' and donations to beggars outside the temple and taking "Prasad", we the hungry lot would rush to a "Dahi-Chuda" shop nearby and fill our stomachs. Then someone would say it is only 'Meetha-Meetha" (Sweet taste) we need "Namkeens". Then the shopkeeper would give some veg dish and "Pakodas". We were satisfied with the food but my wife would be complaining that she had not taken tea since morning and she had a mild headache. So the next step would be a tea shop with madam giving instructions to "Chaiwala" like make good tea, add extra tea leaves, boil it for extra time, make it hard and everyone will take a glass of tea but she would take two. Since many of the "Pundas" know her there, she would invite one or two "Punda Ji" whom she would see near the tea shop for tea. After enjoying tea we would say it is a "Devsthala" (God's place) so 'Paan' is desirable. Thus 'Paan' (betel leaf) completed our food part. Our next work would be marketing in the local market for about two hours and this part of the journey I disliked much. Wife and children enjoyed it as they purchased "Pedas" (A sweet made by drying milk by boiling), "Baddhis" (Thread necklace worn as prasad), bangles, earrings, toys, worship-related items like God's photos, statues, "Shankh" (conch shell), "Saji" (Flower basket made of bamboo, cane or brass), etc. So it was "shop till drop" before we would return to the hotel at Deoghar.
             Other journeys here were in the Hindu month of "Aashadha" which comes in the monsoon time. My father-in-law used to perform "Navaratri Puja" with his family at Basukinath Temple. In a room in the temple courtyard the "Kalash" was used to be placed and worshiped. Their family stayed for nine days at "Kamla Punda Ji's" guest house about 300 m away from the temple. They used to bring all the necessary items for this long stay by one of their own buses and return back after 'Puja' in the same way. Father-in-law would invite us to this "Puja" every year. During my posting at Dumka in the first part of the last decade of last century I used to visit there with my family. While my wife stayed there I would return in a day or two. These visits were an opportunity to know this place at a close distance.
                Now my father-in-law and his family do not come here for "Aashadha Navaratri" due to health issues but I used to visit there during my second posting at Dumka in 2006. This time for repair of some of the govt buildings, especially before 'Sawan' month. All the govt agencies had to work hard for preparations before "Sawan Mela" because this month witnessed a heavy rush of "Kanwariyas". During these visits, I also went to see a nearby "Ashram". My boss was one of the patrons of this "Ashram". He told me that this "Ashram" was established by a learned yogi who was a "Shiva-bhakt". He had a knowledge of 'Ayurveda' and was a lover of vegetation. I saw many rare trees there that are less known. One I remember was a gourd (Louki in Hindi) tree. Usually, gourds are grown on creepers but it was a small tree (in fact a shrub). Another was a shrub which flowers gave vermilion like powder when pressed and they called it "Sindoor ka ped" (vermilion tree). Apart from this, the yogi Baba knew the art of converting mercury to gold. Though any science student would say it is impossible but in the ancient times a lot of labor and research had been done on this process. I have seen many articles confirming that this thing happens. I personally do not believe in it. But my boss said that whenever the "Ashram" had a crunch of funds he would make gold from mercury and send one of his followers to sell it in the town. But he would never do this to collect huge wealth and he did not give this technique to any of his disciples. Baba is no more now and it is being run by the institution of Deoband, U.P. where Baba belonged.
               The construction of this temple is just like the "Baidyanath-Dham" temple, Deoghar but on a smaller scale. The "Shivaganga" (Holy pond) has similarly green stagnant water in which devotees, mostly from villages, take a few dips before going to the temple. We never dared to take dips in it and only sprinkled its water over ourselves with our hands. Its slippery steps are dangerous too. Once we visited here when "Shivaganga" was being cleaned. For it, whole water had been taken out. In the middle of the pond bed, we saw a 10'x10'x10' deep excavation in which a 'Shivalinga' and other gods had been made a long time ago. This submerges when "Shivaganga" is refilled after cleaning. The cleaning is done once in many years.
           Till three years ago this place, Basukinath, was reachable only by road but now one can go there also by train as Dumka-Deoghar is connected by railway line. In future when this rail route is extended to 'Rampurhat' in West Bengal, Basukinath will be reachable from both ends by rail. The work on this rail project is in progress.
             Since "Nandi" (Shiva's bull) is God's vehicle and gatekeeper, A big welcoming "Nandi" idol has been made at the triangular junction on the Dumka-Deoghar highway where we take a turn to Basukinath. "Nandi" is loved by Shiva very much, so bulls around Shiva temples roam freely everywhere and they are fed by the devotees. Here in Basukinathdham, the bulls roam inside the courtyard of the temple feeding on "bail-patras" and flowers offered to gods by the devotees. I remember a small bull that was physically disabled lived in the temple courtyard when we used to visit there in "Ashadh Navaratra" many years ago. My little daughter was very much interested in it. She would touch it and feed 'bail' leaves. Even now whenever she goes there with us, she would look for it but now we do not find it.
Lively temple of "Baba Basukinathdham" at Jarmundi block of Dumka (Santhal Pargana),
Jharkhand, India
            The name 'Basukinath' means 'master of Basuki'. 'Basuki' is the name of Shiva's snake and he adorns Shiva as garland on his neck. 'Basuki' is a 'Naag' variety of snake so 'Basukinath' is also called 'Nagesh' or 'Nageshwar' meaning God of "Naag". The priest here claims that this is one of the twelve "Jyotirlingas" mentioned in 'Shivapuran' and they have written "Nagesh Jyotirlinga" near the entrance of the main Shiva temple here. "Puranas" say that "Nagesh Jyotirlinga"  is in 'Darukavan' and they claim that the area around here is the 'Darukavan'. Whatever it may be most of the people in India think that 'Darukavan' and "Nagesh Jyotirlinga" are near Dwarka in Gujarat. Though there is no forest in a radius of five km from the temple, beyond that the forest has lovely and unique properties. It is thin and the trees found abundantly are "Khajur" (Date palm) and "Palash". The "Khajur" trees in a hilly landscape give a perennial beauty but come the month of March (in the spring season)  the unnoticed "Palash" trees come to full bloom in orange color. It looks like magic. It seems as if some artist has painted his canvas mostly in orange like a fire. The effect is fascinating and mesmerizing. You can see this wonder travelling on the Dumka-Deoghar highway, and even more on the newly built Dumka-Deoghar railway. The forest in the whole of the 'Santhal Pargana' area is like this.
              The priests here will tell you that Basukinath Mahadeva is the "Foujdari Baba" and that is his court is a 'Foujdari' court. It is an Urdu word. In Urdu, courts are of two types -"Deewani" and "Foujdari". "Deewani" courts hear the cases of lands and other disputes which take a long period to come to a decision while "Foujdari" courts hear matters of a criminal nature and take comparatively less time. So these priests mean that "Baba Baidyanath"  is a 'Deewani' court that will take time to fulfill your wishes while "Baba Basukinath" is a "Foujdari" court that will listen to you quickly.
                 And what a sweet 'Maithili bhajan' is sung here with full humility. It is like this .."बाबा बासुकीनाथ हम आयल छी भिखरिया, अहाँ के दुअरिया ना। ." ( O, Baba Basukinath! I the beggar have come to your doorsteps ...) .This song is named as "Nachari" (नचारी). Equally sweet "Bhajan" is "Vimal vibhooti budha barad vahanava se, lambe lambe lat latkaye baba Basuki..".   
              Though many types of pujas, marriage, Mundan, and Upnayan are performed here "Dharana" and "Phulaish" are two worship-related acts that have taken my attention. If a devotee of "Baba Basukinath" wants to get his wishes fulfilled but does not succeed he sits on "Dharana" here, meaning he will give his full time at the temple and will not return to his home till his wishes are fulfilled by "Baba Basukinath". Many people remain on "Dharana" for months. "Phulaish" is performed by an eager devotee who wants to know whether his wishes will get fulfilled by "Baba Basukinath" or not. In general "Phulaish" is said to have happened if a devotee during his worship of a deity (with wishes in his heart) places a flower over an idol and after a few seconds the flower falls down. It is said to be an indication that god will fulfill his wishes. But here "Phulaish" is performed with "Akshat" (rice soaked in water) and betel-nut. A heap of "Akshat" is made over Shivalinga and the betel nut placed on top of it. The devotee and others wait for a slide with the falling of the betel nut. Till this happens all pray loudly "Give o Lord, give". This loud prayer starts a vibration in the air and the process of "Phulaish" is hastened. This "Phulaish" is said to be an indication that the wishes of devotees will be fulfilled.
               I have found this place very lively, peaceful, and full of devotional energy. So do feel many of the people of adjoining states. I have seen many devotees traveling from Deoghar to Basukinath by giving "Dand". They keep a stick in their hand and lie down on the ground with face down, then mark on the ground with the stick as far as they can. Now they stand up and go to the mark and repeat the process again and again. It is called the "Dand". I salute their devotion and courage. 
         "Jai Baba Basukinath !!"

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