Monday, January 4, 2016

Lingaraja Temple, Bhubaneshwar- लिंगराज मंदिर,भुवनेश्वर !

Main Entrance of Lingaraja Temple at Bhubaneswar, Orissa

                  It was the rainy season when I visited Bhubaneswar, Orissa with my family. We planned to stay there for two days and one night. As it happens whenever we visit there with family, a visit to Lingaraja Temple and Ram Mandir is sure. Bhubaneswar is a city of temples. I had the wish to visit some more temples here, like Siddheshwar, Mukteswar, and 64-Yogini temple. Since we have our breakfasts after the morning worship, it is not possible to visit temples till late in the day. So we decided to visit Lingaraj temple and nearby temples on the first day and Ram Mandir on the next day. We reached Bhubaneswar early in the morning and stayed at a Hotel in the Ashok Nagar area that was near the railway station. We had not booked it in advance and the Auto-wala brought us here, but the hotel was newly built and good for staying with family. Our room was on the 4th floor but there was an elevator facility. We were fresh and ready by 8:30 AM in the morning and went directly to Lingaraja Temple which is situated in the old city area and about 4 km from the railway station. Since cell phones, cameras, and slippers are not allowed inside, we left them with our driver though there are arrangements for depositing them outside the temple. Bulls roam at the main gate but they are harmless and lazily eat bananas or other things given by devotees. Whenever I see such good-natured bulls near temples, I remember fearsome bulls in our villages. Nobody dares to go near them and they may enter whatever paddy fields they wish. People get angry at their loss but being a holy animal for Hindus, these bulls are not harmed. Sometimes they laugh at the stories related to these bulls. 

A small crowd to see the new Dream bike
that was brought to Lingaraja Temple gate
for first worship

               When we reached near the gate we saw a small crowd encircling a new bike that was brought there for first worship. I could not understand what was so funny in it, so I asked a person. He told me that it was no ordinary bike but a very costly one (many lakhs), named "Intruder". We too saw it and then went for security check up before approaching the main gate. The main gate is a big door clad in brass. Both of the shutters have some holy figures embossed on the brass cladding. One can see the figure of 'Nandi' (Guard of Shiva) on one shutter and 'Garuda' (Vehicle of Vishnu) on the other. It is so because the main deity here is both Shiva and Vishnu merged into one. 'Shivalinga' is about eight ft dia circular granite stone and the quartz 'Shaligram' is in the middle of it. One can see both 'Nandi' and 'Garuda' seated on the "Garud-Stambh" on the temple campus. Similarly, at the highest point of the temple, there is the emblem of both Gods, Vishnu's 'Chakra' and Shiva's 'Dhanush'. It is so because this land has been a merging place of two of the main sects of the Hindu religion, "Shaiva" and "Vaishnava". Even at one of the entrance pillars one can see the figure of both Gods Shiva and Vishnu merged into one just like "Ardhnarishwar" (which is on the other pillar). While the right half of the God is depicted as Shiva, the left half is Vishnu. (See the enclosed picture). 

Entrance of Lingaraja Temple !
Above the gate is ॐ and "Navagrahas"

              Big idols of lions in bright yellow color are installed on both sides before the entrance gate. They are four in numbers, two on each sides. What is peculiar in these lions are that they have mustaches like humans. Above the gate in the first row the holy symbol  ॐ (Om) is made, below it are nine figures of nine "Grahas"-called "Navagraha"- ("Graha" means planet in English). It is believed that these nine planets have deep effect on a man's life according to the their positions at the time of birth of that man. So before any auspicious occasion when worship of Gods is started, these "Navagrahas" are prayed to be calm and not to create any disturbance during the occasion. These nine planets according to Hindu mythology are - 1. Surya (Sun), 2. Chandra (Moon), 3. Mangal (Mars), 4. Budh (Mercury), 5. Guru (Jupiter), 6. Shukra (Venus), 7. Shani (Saturn), 8. Rahu and 9. Ketu. (Note that all these are not planets according to scientific definition, first seven are the astronomical object while rest two are shadow planets of earth and invisible). So figures of "Navagrahas" at the gate are for the devotees to pray to be calm during his worship of "Lingaraja" and other gods here.      

              When we entered the main gate, we looked for our familiar "Pundit ji" but could not find him. So we took another one who was approaching us. We washed our feet at the left of the entrance where taps are and took flowers and 'Deeps' (दीपक - बाती) for worship. They also sell a special flower here named "Shivalingi" which I take every time I visit here. As its name suggests its shape is like a "Shivalinga" with a hood of snake over it, as we see in the temples. The first temple on the left is of God Ganesha who is always worshiped first of all Gods (प्रथम पूज्य). Next is the "Garud-stambh" which I just mentioned above. A few steps left is the place from where one can have a good view (दर्शन) of the flag (ध्वज). At this place before entering the temple the "Pundit ji" will tell a brief history of the temple and he will not forget to tell that this temple is seven ft higher than the "Jagannath Mandir" at Puri. He will show the holy kitchen where "Bhog" is prepared and the covered path from the kitchen to the temple. The path is covered to prevent sunlight from reaching the "Bhog". It is believed that if sunlight reaches the "Bhog" then it will be assumed that the "Bhog" got offered to the Sun god and it can not be offered to Lingaraja. 

The Lingaraja Temple,Bhubaneswar,Orissa
Picture taken from 'Photo point' near the right gate

             Next we entered the main temple and worshiped there. Generally this temple is not as crowded as the "Jagannath Mandir" at Puri. Time of worship is also more available. We worshiped and touched the Lingaraja. It is only at the time of "Shringar Puja" that the devotees get a view (दर्शन) from a distance. After this worship the priests there would try to get donations for "Bhog" that amount may be a minimum Rs. 600/- to a few thousand. When we visited the first time they asked for a donation and I agreed to pay Rs. 600/-, when I came out of the exit gate of the main temple I saw they were also taking the same amount from my mother who came out a few minutes earlier than us. From then on I get to beware of these tricks. In lieu of this amount, they give a packet full of dry "Prasad" that may last for a few weeks. One can also purchase "Prasad" at the main entrance where they sell six to seven types of dry "Prasad".  

A view of Lingaraja Temple campus from above the right boundary wall

            The outer walls of the main temple are covered with stone statues which are now in a weathered state. On the campus there are many other small temples mainly of 'Shiva' but 'Parvati' temples in the back is more visited by the devotees. In some of the temples, no worships are done while in some others the priests would try to bring devotees for worship. A Sun statue on a platform in the open looks like smiling if you stare at it for a while. A big 'Ganesha' statue is adjacent to the main temple at about a 15 ft high platform. In front of it in the courtyard is a tree where people tie thread for their wishes. Near the smiling Sun statue is a 1½ ft high "Linga" in the open, on which there are engraved many "Shivalinga" spirally. It is called "Sahastralinga". They say that it looks continuously to the Goddess in the nearby temple and no one should obstruct this vision. Whosoever will do so, his all "Punya" will be lost as said (वचन) by the Goddess. The campus of the temple is pitched with local stones. Near the Sun god platform, there is a deep well covered and protected. There is a "Nandi" temple on the right side connected to the main temple. A big statue of "Nandi" the bull is placed in it. Devotees come to this temple after taking a round from behind the main temple completing their worship. It is a custom that when worship is over in the Shiva temple, the devotee goes to "Nandi" and tells their own wishes in the ears of "Nandi". These wishes go directly to the heart of Shiva due to a boon (वरदान) given to "Nandi" by Shiva himself. 

           In a small temple that is connected to the main temple in the back, there are small idols of "Dauji, Subhadra and Krishna" just like Puri's temple. 

            After completing the worship we donated to "Punditji" and came out of the temple and took our mobiles and cameras from our driver. He told us that if we wanted to take pictures of the main temple he would take us to a place made for it and it is on the way back. We happily agreed. He took us near a gate made in the right-hand side boundary of this temple complex. Near the gate, there was a platform on the outside that was higher than the boundary wall there. We went up through the steps. From here we could get a good view of the right side of the main temple. So we took pictures and selfies here and came back to our vehicle. The next visit was to Kedar Gouri, Parashurameswara, Mukteshwar, and Siddheswar temple, which I am going to describe in my coming blogs at this link. 

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