Sunday, May 25, 2014

The Somnath, Dwarka and Nagesh Jyotirlinga Yatra 2014

                 My long cherished dream of 'Somnath' and 'Dwarka' visit was fulfilled this year in the month of February mostly due to my mother's insistence. I did some research on the internet about the places of
Mahavir Jain' Towering Temple, Ahmedabad
interest in these Holy cities and its vicinity. After deciding which places or temples would we visit, I made an itinerary. The next step was the booking of railway tickets and hotels. Nowadays online booking of train tickets and hotels are quite easy and time-saving. After some thinking and advice from colleagues, I decided to reach Ahmadabad by train and visit 'Somnath', 'Dwarka', 'Nageshwar'  and back Ahmadabad by road.
                   I booked hotel Kingsway, Ahmadabad for starting and finishing-day of the tour; Hotel Sagar Darshan at 'Somnath' and Hotel
Hathiramji's Jain Temple, Ahmadabad, Gujarat
Bansi at 'Dwarka. Hotel Sagar Darshan at 'Somnath' was the best hotel among these and also the best of all hotels at 'Somnath'. But you can book it only through the 'Somnath' trust website. Booking of this hotel also entitles you to a pass to your vehicle inside a barrier that is about a km before the main temple.
                    The only moment of tension came just before a day of stay at Ahmadabad while we were on the way to it. I phoned the hotel Kingsway for confirmation of booking. They informed me that room is not booked the next day. This forced me to look carefully at my booking receipt when I noticed- instead of February I had booked in March. I asked them if they can book a
Mahatma Gandhi's Baithak
(Sabarmati Ashram, Ahmedabad)
 where he met many great people,
 now it is a memorial
room on the next day and they happily did.
                Since we had reached Ahmadabad in the morning it was decided to have a quick tour of the town after getting fresh. Accordingly, we saw Jain temple of Hathiram, Swaminarayan temple of Akshardham, Dada
Demonstration of 'charkha' at Sabarmati ashram,
 Ahmedabad. Bapu's this home is now a memorial
Harir Vav and Sabarmati ashram. In the evening before returning to the hotel we also went to the newly constructed riverside of Sabarmati river. It is a very beautiful place for enjoying your spare time. The town of Ahmadabad is itself a good town.
Somnath Yatra
                After the night stay at hotel Kingsway, we started our journey to Somnath in the morning by road. We visited the ISKON temple, Ahmadabad before leaving the town. Through Rajkot we reached
View of  Temple Somnath & Arabian sea from
 Hotel Sagar Darshan, Somnath
Somnath in the evening. Took a pass for our vehicle from the Trust office near the barrier and checked into the hotel Sagar Darshan. The room was on the 2nd floor and the sea view from the balcony was awesome. You could have the sea sight from your bed through the all-glass panel over the balcony. The name Sagar Darshan (View of the sea) justifies itself. If you stand on the balcony facing the sea, on the left you will also see the main temple of Somnath by its side.
                   The beautiful sunset was before us. Standing on the hotel balcony we enjoyed it. Next, we set for the first "Darshan" of Lord Somnath during the evening 'aarti'. The 'aarti darshan' was a memorable moment. The well-spread campus and splendid temple architecture give an awesome view. A big LED screen gives a continuous live view of sanctum sanctorum. You can see it even at a distance.
                  One thing to be remembered is that like most of the important temples, - cameras, cell phones,
Somnath Temple, Somnath, Gujarat
belt and slippers /shoes etc.  are not allowed inside the gate. There is a good and free arrangement for depositing these items. The only difficulty is that you can not deposit all these things at a single place. While shoes and belts have a counter inside the campus, you will have to deposit cameras and cell phones about 100 feet away from the first entrance gate near parking, i.e. outside the campus.
                   Just after the evening 'Aarti', you can see a light and sound show at the back of the temple. Ticket for this show is instantly available inside the temple counters. All types of 'Pujas' can be offered, fees for which is fixed as per the temple trust list. After getting all these information we came back to hotel room.
                  Next morning after taking bath again visited the 'Somnath' temple for 'Sringar Puja Darshan'.
Triveni Tirth, Somnath, Gujarat
All the flowers and offerings are taken by the 'Pundas' kept in a nearby basket. We had 'Gangajal' from Haridwar and also bought a bottle of 'Gangajal' from the temple counter. So we took a coupon for 'Jalabhishek' and went to a priest that was there for 'Sankalp'. Since You can not touch the 'Shivalinga' and have a 'Darshan' from a distance, they have made arrangement for 'Jalabhishek' at the 'Darshan'- counter. So we offered 'Gangajal' at the counter and saw it dropping over 'Somnath Shivaling' though it looked surprising how the holy water going to an upper level.Maybe there was some arrangement like a motor pump.
After this main 'puja' we had the whole day for local important temple and sightseeing. So we visited:-
1. Triveni Tirth - About a km from the main temple this is a confluence of the rivers 'Kapila', 'Hiranya' and invisible 'Saraswati' before merging into Arab Sagar. You can enjoy boating if at least 8 - 10 tourist are willing because there is only one boat. Seabirds and fish feeding is also a good entertainment here. It is also a place for 'Pitri - Tarpan' and priests are always there for this 'Puja'.
The smallmouth Cave at Sharda Peeth,
the old temple, Somnath Gujarat

2. Sharda Peeth old temple - This temple is at about 100 feet from the 'Triveni Tirth'.The main attraction here is a low roof cave which has a small opening. Here 'Swami Ji' used to have 'Dhyana'.

3.'Golokdham Tirth' - After a kilometer drive from 'Sharda Peeth old temple' we reached a complex of temples on the banks of river 'Hiranya'.  It is a very peaceful place. At a place here footprints of Lord Krishna have been made which is called 'Golokdham'. At this place, Lord Krishna had ended his 'Leela'.
Golokdham Tirth, Somnath, Gujarat. Bhagwan Krishna ended
his Leela at this place

4.Balram Temple - This temple is in the 'Golokdham Tirth complex'. When Balram the
Cave in Balram temple, Somnath, Gujarat
elder brother of Lord Krishna saw him end his 'Leela' he too ended his Leela and went to "Paataal" (A 'Lok' believed under the surface of the earth.) by taking his original form of a snake ("Sheshnaag") through a hole. The temple has a statue of Balram and behind it another low-level cave (called Dauji ne Gufa) where a 'Shivalinga' and a hole is there. Through this hole, he entered 'Paataal Lok'.
Geeta Mandir, Somnath, Gujarat
5. Geeta Temple - This temple is also in the 'Golokdham Tirth
Sri Geeta Mandir, Somnath, Gujarat
complex' with a beautiful statue of Lord Krishna inside it. The main feature is that all the eighteen chapters of 'Geeta' are written on the inner wall of the temple.
6. Laxminarayan Temple -This temple is also in the 'Golokdham Tirth complex'.

Idols at Laxminarayan Temple,
Somnath, Gujarat
Beautiful marble statues of Laxmi and Vishnu are in this temple.
7.Harihar Mahaprabhuji's Baithak - this place is also in the 'Golokdham Tirth complex'.
8. Bhalka Tirth - About three km from Somnath temple is situated the 'Bhalka Tirth' complex. It is

Bhalka Tirth, Somnath, Gujarat, The place where
a hunter pierced the foot of  Krishna by mistake
the place where a hunter pierced the foot of Lord Krishna by mistake and the God ended his 'Leela ' after traveling to 'Golokdham Tirth'.
Tortoise in the pond at Bhalka Tirth, Somnath, 
Gujarat
There is a temple here where this scene is depicted in idols. There are other temples of Lord Shiva and Hanuman. A pond with some tortoise is also there. The campus has many banyan trees.
9.Brahmakumari Temple-Just in the neighborhood is a Temple of the shape of a 'Shiva ling' having three floors. On the ground is a depiction of the journey of human from origin to modern times. On the first floor is a few minutes TV show on spirituality. And on the uppermost floor is the same teaching inside a small planetarium.
  10. Ahilyabai's Somnath Temple- This temple is near to the present Somnath temple. Before the construction of the present temple, this was the temple where people worshiped Lord Somnath.
Entrance to Golokdham Tirth Complex,
 Somnath, Gujarat
Brahmakumari Temple, Near Bhalka Tirth,
 Somnath, Gujarat 
It is a two level temple. One 'Shiv ling' is on the ground level and other on the underground.
After all these visits we came back to hotel room took some rest and again went to see the 'Sandhya Arti' at main Somnath temple. The attraction of the temple is irresistible.


DWARKA YATRA

             Next morning we set for Dwarka after having a morning 'darshan of Lord Someshwarnath'. Enroute we reached 'Mul Dwarka' and 'Porbandar' at noon.


Mul Dwarka, Gujarat



Mul Dwarka is the place where Lord Krishna first stayed on the night after he shifted from Mathura. The literal meaning of Mul Dwarka is 'The Original Dwarka'. Here is a temple complex too.
Sudama Temple, Porbandar, Gujarat
Porbandar is also called "Sudama-Nagari". Sudama was the childhood friend of Krishna. He was a Brahmin who lived in poverty till he went to Dwarka to see his friend Krishna after much insistence from his wife Sushila. He saw his friend in Dwarka. Krishna met with him a lot of joy and respect. But neither Sudama asked him for help nor Krishna said anything even though he knew about Sudama's poverty. But to the surprise of Sudama when he returned home there was a palace in place of his cottage with Shushila dressed like a queen. A whole new town was there and he was its ruler. All these by the grace of God Krishna. Porbandar is said to be that town. There is a Temple of Sudama here. After the visit to this temple, we went to see the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi in Porbandar. His old home is preserved as a memorial. In the same campus is a new marble-clad building having library other memorable things of 'Ba and Bapu".


'Laksh Chowrasi Parikrama' Sudama
temple Complx, Porbandar, Gujarat

Chamunda and Varahi mataji's Temple
Sudama Temple complex, porbandar,
Gujarat
Bapu's Birthplace at Porbandar, Gujarat
Before evening we reached Dwarka. The temple of Dwarkadhish is very prominent and visible from a distance. We stayed at Hotel Bansi at Dwarka. In the evening we visited the main temple (called 'Jagat Mandir') and saw the 'Sandhya aarti'. The temple is multi-leveled and intricately carved in sandstone. It is said that this temple was built by 'Vajranabh' the grandson of Krishna. At the top, a large multicolored flag called 'Dhwja' furls which is changed many times a day. The 'Dhwaja' changing is offered by people which have to be booked in advance. As we were said the booking is full up to 2018. The temple complex has two gates called 'Swarg-Dwar' (gate of heaven) and 'Moksha-Dwar' (gate of moksha). Entering the 'Swarg-Dwar' the temples of Kusheshwar Mahadev, Gayatri, Pradyumna, Aniruddha and Ambika come first. In the main temple, only King Dwarkadhish idol is there. Queen Rukmini is not here due to a curse of 'Rishi Durwasa'. Her temple is at a distance of about 12 km from here.Just opposite King Dwarkadhish and facing him is motherDevaki's temple. Another important temple is that of 'Dau Ji' (Balram, Elder brother of Krishna). Crossing it You come to the other gate i.e. 'Moksha Dwar'. This gate takes you to the bank of river Gomati through 'Chhappan-Sidhi' (56 steps). Going down the steps you can notice a place where "Tula Daan" (Donation in kinds equivalent to one's weight) is performed. "Tula Daan" has its importance in 'Dwarka'. We saw a couple performing "Tula Daan" here.
To Bet Dwarka by boat


Distant evening view of Dwarkadhish
Temple while entering Dwarka Nagari



Waiting at Bet Dwarka Jetty

                  This River Gomati is a tidal river and its water is salty sea water. (There is another Gomati in India on the bank of which city of Lucknow is situated). It is considered a sacred river and people take a holy dip in it. Fish and cow feeding is also important.In 24 hrs it goes empty and 6 feet full two times. There are many pucca ghats each having its own history. You can see locals selling different types of shells picked from this river.One of these called a 'Gomati chakra' is only found here. Due to this, this area was also called 'Chakra Tirtha'. During high tide, I was fortunate enough to see a sea turtle of about two and a half feet wide.
Sea Gulls flying over the boat for food 
(between Okha port and Bet Dwarka), Gujarat

Near the mouth of the river is the temple of Sea God ("Samudra Narayan'). As you walk along the seashore you see the vast expanse of Arabian sea. Being the westernmost edge of the mainland the sunset view is amazing from here. A special Sunset point is also made. A lighthouse is also near it.
                   At some distance from the sunset-point is a small temple of 'Bhadkeshwarnath'. You can reach here only during the low tide. We saw a construction in the approach road in progress, on completion of which access to the temple will be hinder less.
These were the places we visited within two km of the main temple.
Bet Dwarka
                     Next morning after the 'Darshan' of Dwarkadhish we set for 'Bet Dwarka'. It is an island off the Okha port about 20 km from the main Dwarka temple.We took a jetty to reach there. It is said that the original Dwarka was here which got submerged as per Lord Krishna's wish after he ended his 'Leela'. Some of its remains are still visible under water. At present, there is a temple complex in which main is "Keshavraiji's temple" in which the idol of Krishna is said to be made by queen Rukmini after she was separated from him by the curse of 'Rishi Durwasa'. Here are donation places where people donate rice grains. Since poor Sudama had brought rice as a gift for Krishna and Krishna gave him all the riches, so people bring rice here or donate money for rice. In the afternoon there is a 'Lungar' in which everybody can have a free meal which contains cooked rice, vegetables and pulse is given. Another interesting thing here is a thick pillar behind the main temple, the gap between it and the temple is narrow. You can see people taking a round of this pillar. It is said that if one can not pass the narrow gap he might be sinful. Returning by jetty was
Shiva in Dhyan Mudra at
Nageshwar Jyotirlinga Temple
Gujarat
very entertaining due to the playfulness of seagulls. Our driver Rajesh Tiwary (He went to Bet Dwarka with us) fed them biscuits. Holding biscuit in his hand he stood on the jetty and wow! the seagulls came so near above us. We took some pictures.
                   On returning we went to Nageshwar Jyotirling temple and had 'darshan' there. Unlike Somnath here you can offer 'Puja' by touching too but on conditions. The first condition is you have to pay and have a coupon on per head basis, the charge is Rs 250 to 300 depending on whether you are single or in a group.
Nageshwar Jyotirlinga Temple 
near Dwarka Gujarat
Another condition is you can offer 'puja' wearing a 'dhoti' (conventional Indian dress). Being one of the twelve 'Jyotirlinga' this 'Nagesh Ling' of 'Daruka van' (Forest of Daruka) is very important. So we decided to offer puja here next day because we had our meal at 'Lungar' at 'bet Dwarka' and after meal touching a Shivalinga is not a rule.
                          About a km from here a park named "Nagesh Van" is made. It is a beautiful park with many medicinal plants, flowers, sculptures and a very small museum. Some area is especially for Holy Basil (Tulsi) plant.
                          Our next stop was "Gopi Talab". It is a holy pond too. The story related to it is that when
Gopi Talab, Near Nageshwar Jyotirling,
 Gujarat
Krishna shifted to Dwarka, his women followers 'Gopi' at 'Vrindavan' became extremely unhappy and full of sorrow. They were deeply in love with him and now knew that Krishna would perhaps never return to 'Vrindavan'. But they had hope and faith that at least once in their life will have his 'Darshan'. Krishna knew it and decided to give them a place in his heavenly place "Baikunth Dham" which is every Krishna follower's dream. So he sent his friend "Udhhav" to 'Vraj' who brought 'Gopis' to Dwarka. Here Krishna met Gopis and details of this touching meeting is given in "Bhagwat Purana". After the meeting, Krishna asked them to take a dip in the pond and under water, they saw "Baikunth Lok" and God Krishna made them permanent residents of "Baikunth Lok". So this pond was named "Gopi Talab" and it is a holy one. The yellow clay of this pond is said to be equivalent to sandalwood. This clay is used as 'Tilak' and the clay is named as "Gopi Chandan". It is sold here and at many holy cities. Some temples of interests are also here.
Lastly, we visited the temple of "Rukmini". It is situated in a barren land with no source of drinking water. By the curse of 'Rishi Durwasa', she was separated from Krishna and the whole area was also cursed to be
Temple of Rukmini Devi near Dwarka, Gujarat
waterless. So at this temple, there is the importance of water donation. You pay for the cost of one pitcher water to a tanker of water as a donation. Also, the things of "Suhag" (Married women symbol) is offered here. Out of the temple, we saw a group of "Sadhus" (About thirty in number) sitting in an orderly manner on the ground in the scorching sun. You donate to any one of them and they raise slogans in praise of God Krishna. From there we came back to the hotel. Opposite our hotel Bansi, there was a 'Marwadi Vaishnav Food" center called Annapurna Bhojnalaya. Per 'Thali' Rs. 90 and you eat as much as you can.
Nageshwar Jyotirlinga Yatra
Next morning after 'Dwarkadhish Darshan' we started for Nageshwar Jyotirling at about 7:00 AM. It was a fine morning of February and not much rush. We took coupons for Puja, bought a 'thali' of puja offering and changed my dress as per rule (wore a 'dhoti'). A 'Pundit ji' (priest) helped us in offering 'Puja'. After that, we saw the campus of the temple. Late Gulshan Kumar had a big role in making the present building and campus of the temple. He also built a big statue of Lord Shiva sitting in a "Dhyana" in the campus. It is visible from a long distance and adds to the beauty of the temple. After the 'Puja' we returned to Dwarka and had some shopping in the local market.  We went for "Darshan" and 'Aarti' of "Dwarkadhish" every morning and evening till we stayed there. Next morning after 'Darshan' we left Dwarka for Ahmadabad through Rajkot. Night stay at Hotel Kingsway and in the morning went for the 'Darshan' of "Maa Bhadrakali" at Lal Darwaja Ahmadabad. In the evening we boarded the train for our journey back home.
Morning view of  "Nageshwar  Temple" and Shiva Statue
at Dwarka, Gujarat

It was a lovely and entertaining tour and a pilgrimage too.Some more pictures are below. Hope you find this description informative and helpful.





PICTURE GALLERY
Gomati River at high tide, Dwarka, Gujarat
Samudra Narayana Temple at the westernmost tip
of Gujarat, India (Dwarka)
Awsome Sunset view at Dwarka, Gujarat
Gajraj at Ahmedabad, Gujarat
Shankh at Nagesh Van, Gujarat

God Statue at Nagesh Van, Gujarat

Mast Haathi at Ahmedabad, Gujarat
Maa Bhadrakali Temple
at Lal Darwaja Ahmadabad
,

Gujarat
Annapurna Bhojnalaya, Dwarka, Gujarat
Bhadkeshwar Mahadev Temple,
Dwarka, Gujarat
Bhadkeshwar Mahadev Temple,
Dwarka, Gujarat
Bhadkeshwar Mahadev Temple,
Dwarka, Gujarat
A depiction of an event from Shiv Purana
at Nagesh Van, Gujarat

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