Sunday, January 31, 2016

Ram Mandir, Bhubaneswar !

Continued from the last blog - Sai Baba and 64-Yogini temple at Bhubaneswar, Orrisa !  
Sri Ram-Mandir, Bhubaneswar

We returned from the 64 - Yogini Temple after "darshan" and it was well past 12 noon. Due to the temple visit we had not taken our breakfast. Today's temple visit was complete and we felt hungry. The driver stopped the vehicle near the "Sai Baba Temple" on the Cuttack - Puri bypass road. There were some roadside "Dhabas". We ate some "Pakodas", local biscuits and took tea. After taking refreshments we came back to hotel and took some rest. We decided to visit "Ram-Mandir" next day. So took our lunch and went to nearby 'City Market'. After a few hours we returned to our room. In the evening we all wanted to have some tea but the hotel tea was not to our like. Earlier we had tasted the tea of roadside stall near the 'Janpath'. My wife is a tea lover and said that the stall tea gives refreshment. She was not ready to have hotel tea. So we all went to the stall and ordered good strong tea made afresh. The old man said to wait for ten minutes started his work. We waited, chatted and saw the evening market and people. But within five minutes the sky was full of clouds and it started raining. There was hardly any shelter available there to keep us dry. The small two ft 'chhajja' projection of the shop was whatever available. First we tried to save our cloths but soon we realized that it was better to keep our head dry than cloths. It was my wife's persistence to come here so I was not happy but she and my daughter was enjoying this rain and said that such things remain in the memory lane for ever. They were true. 

           In the rainy season plenty of mushrooms are available in Bhubaneswar. At many places black colored mushrooms can be seen being sold at Rs 100 to 120 a kg. These look local products while in our city nowhere one can get less than Rs 200 a kg whatever be the type of mushroom. Even the mushroom dish in the hotels are available at half the price from our city. So whenever we come here mushroom dishes are on our top of the list for food. Between our hotel and railway station was a restaurant named "Ankit Hotel". It is a good place for food which is always full of visitors. We took our dinner there and came to room for a night's rest.  

An idol with snake's head
at the entrance of Ram Mandir,
Bhubaneswar

               Next morning we got ready by 9:00 AM and called an auto for "Ram-Mandir". This temple is hardly 2-3 km from the hotel we stayed. It is a neat and clean temple with marble floors and outer walls having red in color. The front gate have many idols on its walls. Some of the idols attract attention because their heads are that of a snake. The main temple is a big hall at six ft above the ground level where devotees reach by ascending wide marble steps in the front. At the far end of the hall are three temples. Just in the front is idols of "Ram-darbar" while on the right is Hanuman temple. On the left hand is temple of Radha-Krishna. Each temple has its own "Pundit ji". We prayed in all these temples and got "Prasad". Then sat in the hall facing gods for some time. 

                Near the gate on both sides there are more temples in which Ganesh, Shiva, Durga and Rani Sati are the main temples. In the Shiva temple, the Pundit-Ji sits on its entrance and devotees are not allowed to enter the inside. But they have made an arrangement for the devotees to offer "Jal" (water) to "Shivalinga" from a small side window. An iron channel is fixed from the window to "Shivalinga" that helps water to fall on it. We bought some flowers and "Prasad" from shops just near the Shiva-temple. The flowers included "Lotus" too. Shiva likes "Lotus". 

              After the Shiva-Puja we said our "Pranam" in other temples. There is sufficient arrangement for water and "Drinking-water" to the left of the entrance.

The shop near the entrance of
Ram Mandir,Bhubaneswar
A good place for having "Nashta"

                 Completing our Puja we took our slippers from the shoe-stand outside where we had deposited them. The person here is paid Rs 1.00 for each pair of shoes. Now we felt hungry and went to the shop just at the side of the "Ram-Mandir". This shop is simple in looking but its breakfast items (Nashta) are tasty and satisfying. There are many items and all fresh. That is why whenever we visit Bhubaneswar and come "Ram-Mandir" for puja, we take our breakfast here.                                                        
Box Office at INOX,
Bhubaneswar

                 After breakfast we had sufficient spare time in hand because our train to home was in the night. So we decided to see some movies. About 1.5 km from "Ram-Mandir" is INOX multiplex. We went there by auto. Two super-hit movies were being shown there- "Baahubali" and "Bajrangi Bhaijaan". Since my family likes light hearted movies so we chose later one. It was really worth seeing. 

                   After that we did some marketing in the BMC mall in which INOX is situated and returned back to hotel. Our Bhubaneswar journey was full of enjoyment and satisfying. That night we boarded our train to back home. 

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Saturday, January 23, 2016

Sai Baba and 64-Yogini temple at Bhubaneswar, Orissa !

Continued from the last Blog - Kedar Gouri, Siddheswara, Mukteswara and Parasurameswara Temples at Bhubaneswar, Orissa!  

64-Yogini Temple/Chousathi Yogini Mandir at Hirapur, Bhubaneswar

               Our taxi driver was a devotee of "Shirdi Wale Sai Baba". We had no earlier plan to visit "Sai temple" here but since he was not sure to visit "64-Yogini Temple" so he requested us to visit his "Ishtdeva" (Favorite god) temple - Sai Baba Temple. We still had time in hand and no other taxi or auto driver was ready to go to "64-Yogini Temple" so we agreed. About four kilometers from "Kedar Gouri" temple we reached near the "Cuttack - Puri" bypass road. We saw some other old temples on the way that were similar in architecture to "Lingaraja Temple" which is called "Kalinga Architecture". But did not alight from the vehicle because these temples are mostly of archaeological interest and very few are visited by devotees. 
Mahadev Temple in the
campus of  64-Yogini Temple
Bhubaneswar

               Just crossing the "Cuttack - Puri" bypass road the driver stopped the vehicle at the entrance of Sai Baba Temple and requested us to visit there. Though the campus was not large like just visited other temples but it was very well maintained. The front garden had green grass and many flowering plants. On the ground floor was a big hall for "Dhyana" and Sai Baba Temple was on the first floor. The stairs to the first floor were in the front. 

Goddess Kali in Hibiscus
at 64 Yogini Temple,
Bhubaneswar

                The temple is, in fact, a big hall. The white 'Sai' idol is placed on an elevated platform and somewhat larger than life-size. Many red roses were put on the feet of 'Sai'. The clean and peaceful ambiance of the temple was impressive. We offered our "pranam" to 'Sai' and came back and thanked the driver for bringing us to this temple. In the meantime, the driver had collected some information about the location of "64-Yogini Temple". He told me that he would take us there because we have already come to halfway distance. We got into the vehicle and headed towards "64-Yogini Temple". We saw that "64-Yogini Temple" also called "Chousathi Yogini Mandir" is located in a village named Hirapur that was outside the town of Bhubaneswar. In fact, we crossed a wide river named "Kuakhai" (which is a distributary of Mahanadi) and drove on a road that was parallel to the river. A canal was also on the other side of the road. After about four km travel from the Sai Baba Temple, we took a left turn from the riverside road. Half a km on this village road and we had a big pond in front of us. This was "64-Yogini Pond". At this point, we had roads on both turns. The driver asked a local person who told that road on the right is for Hirapur village while on the left is Chousathi Yogini Mandir. So we turned left and 100 m away we reached our destination.

                 It was a peaceful place away from the rush of a city. The temple campus is secured with fencing and a small gate is opened for visitors. Near this gate was a small shop. Very few visitors were present at that time. The temple complex is maintained by Archaeological Survey of India and a caretaker is appointed for this place. When we entered through the gate we saw a Pundit Ji. He showed us the campus and the temples. In fact, only two temples were in the small campus. Near the gate, on the left-hand side, a small Shiva temple was there. We said our "Pranam" to Shiva who is here with a name of "Kusheswara Mahadeva" or something like that. I saw a big flower on "Shivalinga" that was in size of a lotus but cream in color. It had five petals. I had never seen such a flower before. Since I am interested in flowers of worship so I asked Pundit Ji about it. He told me that it was a flower of worship and local people offer it to Shiva but he could not tell me its actual name. 

Goddess Mahamaya, the main Yogini
at Chousathi Yogini Temple
at Bhubaneswar

                On the right of this temple in the open is a Vishnu idol. Next, we visited the main temple that is "64-Yogini Temple". Apart from Pundit ji, an old man came with us whom we did not know. He was showing us the temple like a guide without asking for it. When I inquired about him, he told me that he was the caretaker. He showed us inside and outside of the temple. He had some books in a bag with him, one of which was on this "64-Yogini Temple" written by some research scholar. He tried to sell it to me too.  

                It is a unique temple. Made of sandstone blocks in a circular shape but without a roof. It is called "Hypaethral Architecture". These types of temples are made for "Tantra-sadhana". Very few temples of "yoginis" are found in India and most of them are in Orrisa and Madhya Pradesh. This "64-Yogini Temple" at Hirapur village is constructed in the ninth century. All of these 64 "yoginis" are manifestations of "Adishakti" or "Durga" into demi-goddesses. Their idols are in black granite and in each of these idols these "yoginis" are standing overheads of animals or humans. It symbolizes the superiority of the heart over the mind. 56 of the 64 idols are placed along the inner side of the circular wall in rectangular cavities. Rest eight are on the four sides of a platform made in the center of the temple. Some say that there was an idol of "Bhairava" on this platform. There may be truth in it because "Adishakti" is always worshiped with "Shiva" who is also "Bhairava". The "yogini" directly in front of the entrance is seen through the platform and she is "Mahamaya". Most of the idols are now damaged to some extent. When we went inside the temple we saw two sisters from the nearby village preparing 64 "Deep" (earthen lamp for worship) with 'ghee' and 'Baati' (cotton thread). These were for 64 "Yoginis" worship. Some idols are also placed on the outer wall. Since "Adishakti" is nature itself so the "Sadhaka" here tries to connect with nature through 'Yoga' in the 'Tantra-sadhana' and no-roof helps him in doing so. 

Yoginis in damaged state at 64-Yogini Temple
at Hirapur, Bhubaneswar

                   The caretaker as a guide was showing us the idols in his own typical style. When seeing the temple was over we gave some money to both persons - Pundit Ji and Caretaker. Just in front of the temple is a big platform which is called "Surya-chabootara" (Platform of the Sun). Apart from these structures, there is one more thing that may attract the attention of visitors and it is a thick-walled small diameter water well. Its diameter is hardly one meter. There are green grasses and a few flower-trees in the campus. One of them "Swarn-Champa" tree is planted mainly in temples. In Bhubaneswar, I saw these trees near the gate of many houses.
Surya Chabootara at 64-Yogini
Temple Campus, Bhubaneswar

                    We stayed there for some more time and snapped some pictures. It was a peaceful and nice place. Now our driver was eager to return back. We were satisfied and got back into our taxi for the return journey.   

(Next visit to "Ram Mandir, Bhubaneswar" - journey details in coming blog) 

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Sunday, January 17, 2016

Kedar Gouri, Siddheswara, Mukteswara and Parasurameswara Temples at Bhubaneswar, Orissa !

Continued from the post - Lingaraja Temple, Bhubaneshwar- लिंगराज मंदिर,भुवनेश्वर  !  

The beautiful Mukteshwara Temple at Bhubaneswar

         The three temples of Siddheswara, Mukteswara and Parasurameswara are near to each other. These are about 2 km from the Lingaraja Temple. The driver parked the vehicle on the side of the main road. From there we had to walk about 150 ft. On the right side was the beautiful campus of  Siddheswara and Mukteswara temple while on the left we saw a temple of Kedaar Gauri. While we could see a few tourists in the campus of Siddheswara and Mukteswara temple, the Kedar Gouri temple was buzzing with devotees. We decided to visit Kedar Gouri temple first. Like every other "Bhagawati" temple there were many flower and "prasad" shops near the gate of the temple. Buying some "prasad" we entered the main gate of the temple where on the both sides big lion statues welcome the devotees and went to Ganesha temple first. Then worshiped in Gouri temple, Kedar temple and Hanuman temple. There is a pond behind the temples. The Shivalinga in the Kedar temple is at lower level than the entrance level. In front of this temple there is a big "Bakul" tree in the courtyard. Beneath is worshiped "Mangala Bhagawati" which was established many years ago by a "Sadhu"  who lived here. Numerous small "Bakul" flowers had fallen from the tree and looked beautiful. 

 Siddheshwara Temple at Bhubaneswar

               After coming out of the temple complex we asked a local person about Siddheswara and Mukteswara temples. He told me that there is another old temple of "Parashurameshwar" 200 ft ahead. From there you come to Siddheswara and Mukteswara temples. These are interconnected. All four of us walked to "Parashurameshwar" temple. Its campus is small and big trees do not allow grass to grow in the campus. The outside of the temple has also weathered to some extent. When we entered the temple only a priest came to perform his own worship. No other tourist or devotee was coming. In the poorly lit hall, we said our "Pranam" to "Parashurameshwar" Shivalinga and came out. Without coming to the road we entered the campus of Siddheswara and Mukteswara temple through the interconnected gate. This campus was well-maintained. The lawn looks good with green grass. The flowerbeds were planted with "Vaijayanti" flower plants. Yellow flowers with red dots were attractive. Two temples were about 100 ft apart. We first visited Siddheswara Temple. All these temples are based on Kalinga architecture. No one was inside this temple. I offered a "Shivalinga" flower to God that I had bought inside the Lingaraja temple to have a picture of it because inside it they do not allow cameras. 
Canna Lily (Vaijayanti) flower in
the lawn of  Siddheswara Temple

                  Next, we visited the Mukteshwara temple. Its stone arch gate is marvelous. There was a priest there who was giving us information about the architecture of the temple. He showed us an eight petaled carved lotus at the top of the ceiling in the chamber just before the "Garva-griha". Then we saw the campus and took some pictures. We saw a pond behind the Mukteshwara temple in which some devotees were taking a dip.  

An ornamental tree in
the campus of Siddheswara
Temple,Bhubaneswar

                 When we came back to our vehicle we asked our driver whether he had gone to "64-Yogini temple" before and would he take us there. He had not visited there. Some people told him that it was on the outskirts of Bhubaneswar and about 14 km away. So he declined but requested us to visit the "Sai Baba" temple here. He was his follower. We still had time, so we agreed and took our seats in the taxi and set on for the "Sai Baba" temple. 

 Next part of our journey at Bhubaneswar, in the coming blog ... !! 

Sai Baba and 64-Yogini temple at Bhubaneswar, Orissa!                 

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Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Baba Ajgaivinath, Sultangunj, Bihar

Shivalinga of Baba Ajgaivinath and images of Parvati
and Ganesha on the wall at Sultangunj, Bihar

           Sultangunj is famous as a place from where millions of devotees take the holy water of Ganga in the Hindu month of 'Sawan' and go on foot or by other means to Baba Baidyanathdham, Deoghar, Jharkhand (distance about 100 km) to offer it to "Jyotirlinga" of Shiva. It is situated on the southern bank of the Ganga in Bihar. For Hindus Ganga is a holy river that flowed in the heavens and King Bhagirath brought it on the earth after hard penance to give "Moksha" to his forefathers who were cursed to death. When Ganga came to earth with tremendous force God Shiva took it in his "Jata" (tress) to slow its force. She is liked by Shiva, so the water of this holy river called "Gangajal" is also considered holy and used in worships. The flow of river Ganga at Sultangunj is Northwards so its importance increases ("Uttarvahini Ganga"). Though Sultangunj is situated in the plains of Ganga and hills are not in sight all around the horizon, at the "Ghats" of Ganga one can see the two small hillocks a few hundred meters apart. On one of them, a mosque is constructed while on the other is the temple of "Ajgaivinath". It is said that the mosque was made in place of a "Parvati" temple by "Kalapahad" (A converted Muslim who had destroyed many temples and made thousands of Hindus accept Islam) but he could not destroy the Shiva temple on the other hill. According to Hindu mythology, the hill of "Ajgaivinath" was once the ashram" of "Jahnu Rishi" and many students came to his Ashram to get his teachings and education. In the modern history this place is related to a Shiva devotee named Harinath who used to go to Baba Baidyanathdham, Deoghar regularly. One day Shiva told him in his dreams that Harinath would not come to Deoghar but Shiva himself would come as "Shivalinga" at "Ajgaivinath". Harinath found the dream to be true. So he built a temple at the hill and became the first "Mahanth" here. 
The Pundit ji was wearing Dhoti over the Jeans Pant.
In the background the Mosque on the hill at
Sultangunj, Bihar

              I had visited here many times before with my family for a few dips in the holy river Ganga (called "Ganga-snan") and fetch "Gangajal" for worships at home and to offer it to Shiva at Baba Baidyanathdham, Deoghar and Baba Basukinathdham, Dumka. The last visit here was from Dumka. I had some work at Dumka, Jharkhand. When my wife knew it, she told me that remaining "Gangajal" at home was very less in quantity and some old aged relatives had passed away in the last year so we need "Ganga-snan" and "Gangajal". Since I could spare only one more day outside home so we agreed that in that day we shall take dips in Ganga and fetch "Gangajal" and return back to home. We had not an extra day to visit to the temples of Baba Baidyanathdham, Deoghar and Baba Basukinathdham, Dumka which otherwise was a must for us. Since nearest "Ganga-ghat" from Dumka is at Bhagalpur, Bihar, we planned to hire a taxi from Dumka to bathing "Ghat" near Barari, Bhagalpur in that morning so that we could return to Jasidih railway station in the evening to board our train.  

Baba Ajgaivinath Temple at Sultangunj Bihar

              As per plan I with my mother and wife reached Dumka on the fixed date in the morning and stayed at a hotel. I had my work done in the first half of the day so we all took our lunch and rested. In the evening I contacted the staff at counter of the hotel for hiring a taxi for the next day, he tried but did not succeed. Dumka is a small town and these hotel staffs are not so professional. So I went to taxi stand near bus stand and talked to one of the taxi drivers. He told me the rates that was higher than the normal because the road to Bhagalpur was in its worst condition. But he himself was unable to go next day due to some urgent work, so he talked to another taxi driver on phone who was ready to go. I too talked to him and fixed the time at 6:00 AM in the morning. 
A view of Ajgaivinath Temple from
Parvati Mandir at Sultangunj, Bihar

                Next morning we got ready by 6:00 AM and waited for the taxi but it had not come till 6:30 AM, so I ringed the driver, he told, "taking breakfast, just coming." Next time he told,"I am on the way." Again I dialed, he answered,"I am just near your hotel". Next he switched off the phone and nowhere he or his taxi was in sight. I got anxious because we were getting late. It was already 7:30 AM. The hotel staff told me that he could arrange a taxi but it will take about an hour because he would have to go to residence of the taxi owner. I had no other way in my mind. Just when I was to say OK to him my phone ranged. It was an unknown number. When I picked up the call, it was another driver named Gopal. He asked me that if "Ganga-snan" is the purpose, would I go to Sultangunj instead because due to the road condition no driver would agree to go to Bhagalpur. He was true. Even we would have exhausted in travelling on that road. I asked him, "If I agree, how much time would you take to come to hotel". He told me,"five minutes". I asked him to come as soon as possible. Thus our destination changed to Sultangunj due to turn of the events. He came within 15 minutes. My wife wanted to take a cup of tea before starting the journey. We all took tea in "Kulhads" at the famous tea-shop of Dumka - at Gopi's tea shop. Then saying "Bol-bum" we started our journey to Sultangunj.   

                We took the route via Deoghar. Distance from Dumka to Sultangunj via Deoghar is about 175 km, while our previous planned route Dumka - Bhagalpur was about 120 km. So we had to cover extra 55 km to Sultangunj. But this route was good except a few places. On the other hand Dumka - Bhagalpur road was almost non-motorable. Our current journey was to take more than 4 hours. So we were to reach Sultangunj not before 12 noon. Our aim was to do "puja" (worship) at "Ajgaivinath" after "Ganga-snan". So till "puja" we could take only tea or milk. After two hours of driving we reached "Katoria". Here we stopped for fifteen minutes and took tea. From Katoria one road on the right turn goes to Banka while the road on the left turn goes to Sultangunj. The point at which one or more roads join are called "Mode -मोड़" in local language. So this was "Katoria mode". We took left turn from here. Journey ahead was interesting because the route was through a valley and scenery was awesome. Along came a place named "Suiya Pahad". Its meaning is "hill of needles. This name is due to the small fragments of stones here have sharp edges. This place is on the pedestrian route for "Kanwariyas" (who fetch two pots of 'Gangajal' at Sultangunj and hang them on both ends of a bamboo part and keep it on the shoulders) from Sultangunj to Baba Baidyanathdham, Deoghar. Since they walk bare footed, this place gets very difficult to walk for them. Sharp edges of small stones under the feet hurts badly and sometimes they bleed.

A view of Holy river Ganga at Sultangunj
and Chowkis at Ganga-ghat

            After the hilly area, begins the plain of Ganga. You will see  continuous paddy fields up to you can see. The vast even stretches are dotted with some villages. Around 12:30 PM we reached the railway over-bridge at Sultangunj. The driver asked local people for the directions at two or three places because we had to take turns at some places in the busy market roads. The driver took the taxi at the 'Ghat' parking that was very near to the "Ajgaivinath" hill. Ganga was flowing about 15 ft down from here. Many wooden "Chowki" were placed on the ghat slope. These are placed by sellers of worship items or flowers. These sellers provide you dry "Chowki" on which clothes can be put during "Ganga-snan". But you have purchase things from this seller only. Since we arrived late here, very few sellers were there. A lady flower seller with a 6 yrs child asked us to keep clothes at her "Chowki". Many people were still taking bath. We cautiously entered the water because the land under the water was not even and many hard things like fragments of earthen pots and plastic things (thrown by devotees) laid there. The water quality was good compared to other cities in Bihar and UP. All of three took many dips in the holy water of Ganga and filled all the pots we took with us for this purpose. My wife also took some fine clay of Ganga beneath the water which is called "Mrittika" (मृत्तिका). This holy earth is used for many purposes related to worship. After "Ganga-snan" ladies perform Ganga-worship. For this my mother and wife purchased flowers, "Deep" (earthen lamp with ghee and cotton 'bati'), camphor, etc. from the lady seller. 
Holy Banyan tree near Parvati Temple at
Ajgaivinath, Sultangunj, Bihar

                Just then came a Pundit ji who looked like a college student. In fact he was wearing a dhoti over jeans pant. He told me "the place where your vehicle is parked belongs to my area, so either you pay me Rs. 40/- or get your worship performed by me for which you will have to pay Rs 151/- as 'Dakshina' (donation)." When I talked in local language about his village and 'gotra' and also told him that I am no outsider and belong to the neighboring district, his tone of talking became mild. I told him that you take us to "Ajgaivinath" temple and perform worship but the 'Dakshina' (donation) would be as per my wish. First he tried to argue but then agreed. He first helped in performing Ganga-worship to my mother and wife then took us to the temple on the hill for worship of "Baba Ajgaibinath". He took us to the temple through a way on the right of the entrance and a short-cut. At half way we saw a cow being kept there. Just at the gate of the main temple we saw an old "Sadhu" sitting with "Bibhooti" in a "Thali" (Big plate). He was putting a "Tilak" of "Bibhooti" at the middle of forehead of the devotees coming there and in return devotees were putting coins or small notes. Inside we saw three "lingas" and and "Parvati's" image on the adjacent wall. These were the natural "lingas" of "Ajgaivinath". The Pundit ji told that at this place Shiva had taken a bow named "Ajgav", so this place was named "Ajgaivinath". From here he took us to show other idols and images of gods. We saw some some idols that were very old. Perhaps they were obtained in excavations. In fact this area have been center of arts and learning during the times of Mauryas, Guptas and Palas. At a place small idols of Buddha along with seven ft high copper Buddha statue had been recovered. Some of it were taken to museum at Birmingham by the English. A separate "Parvati" temple have been constructed at the lower level. We also went there to worship. My mother recalled the time when she occasionally used to come here for worship with her parents in her childhood, every time she saw this hillock having deep water all around. People went to temple by boats. True, the water in Ganga has decreased in volume drastically in last few decades.

                  After completion of worship we came back to our taxi and gave Pundit ji his "Dakshina". I took him with us to the road so that no other person will ask again for parking. After dropping him there we took our back journey. It was about 2 O'clock and we were quite hungry. About 10 km from Sultangunj we saw a "Dhaba" where some people with family were eating. Here we stopped and took our lunch. From here we went non-stop and reached railway station of Jasidih at about 6 PM. The driver Gopal brought our luggage to waiting room. I paid his bill in full and thanked him. He had to return back to Dumka and was hoping for some passenger to Dumka for some extra income. He too was happy and in a gesture of respect touched our feet at the parting time. 

                Thus we completed our mission for "Ganga-snan" in a wonderful way. 

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